Tag Archives: Budapest

The Schengen Terrier….

June 20, 2018

The Schengen Terrier

A composite picture of the elusive Schengen Terrier…No one has ever really seen it and no one has ever cleaned up after him…

I have a bad news for U.S. puppy millers, there is no such a breed as the Schengen Terrier on the AKC’s FSS list.  Also, the Schengen Terrier is not an umbrella term for liberal European dog laws allowing dogs pretty much do anything on the continent.

Countries covered by the Schengen Agreement

Countries covered by the Schengen Agreement

Well, yes, it is true, dog laws are pretty relaxed across the pond, comparing to the United States.  Some of the crazy stories what you’ve heard that pooches are allowed in restaurants, on public transportation and beaches are partially also true, however, they are controlled by no-nonsense animal  laws.

So than what is this Schengen thing anyway? Actually, it has nothing to do with dogs, however, by now, I think you are curious enough to read about it. http://www.loc.gov/law/foreign-news/article/european-union-schengen-area-and-re-introduction-of-border-controls/

The point is that the  Schengen Agreement is like an European dog law.  It spells out where you and your dog are permitted to go under the laws of the Union, however, it might be too generous and generates more mess than expected…

It is really upto the store owner what pet is allowed in the store

It is really upto the store owner what pet is allowed in the store or restaurant.

So I am back at the original crime scene with Anka for over a week now. Have checked in with some friends and family, visited government offices and other public places always taking Anka along.

Anka in the restaurant evidently she is covered under the Schengen Terrier Agreement

Anka in the restaurant. Evidently she is covered under the Schengen Terrier Agreement

 

Did you know that…

…in Hungary, a three months old pup needs to be registered whithin its local jurisdiction? Vets have to report each dog’s microchip and vaccinations to a central  national database. TO complicate matters however, local governments can have their own additional “dog laws.”

Dogs are allowed free in back yards, only, if it is fenced in.

Dogs must be leashed in public, dogs cannot enter to play grounds, untrained and vicious dogs must be muzzled in public.

Doggy Esperanto

Doggy Esperanto

Dogs can run free in designated areas, however, untrained, vicious dogs must have their muzzle kept on while off leash.

Every dogs must be leashed and muzzled(!)  on public transportations. (They can take public transportation)

Dogs cannot bother neighbors, (good luck with your Pumi that is kept outside) and one’s property must be fenced in if dogs kept outside. Small dogs have to have a minimum 10m2 area and no shorter than 6 meters long chain  and a dog house. Larger dogs have to be kept within a minimum 15m2 area. with no shorter than an 8 meters long chain and a dry shelter.

If  one owns a “mean breed,” a clearly visible sign must be posted at the entrance of the property that there are guard dogs on the premises.

To recover lost dogs from shelters, the owners must present proof of vaccinations and microchip.  Dogs are allowed to put down by law if no one claims or adopts them after two weeks.

Breeders need the local major’s office permission to start a kennel.

Sandboxes at playgrounds are regularly checked for toxicity... One of the most frequent complaint is dog poop in the sand box

Sandboxes at playgrounds are regularly checked for toxicity… According to official surveys, one of the most frequent complaints is dog poop in sand boxes.

Dogs are strictly prohibited to enter…  schools, daycare centers, social and cultural facilities,  government offices that are open for the public (e.g. DMV)

In the same time, dogs cannot be tied up outside (in front of stores, government offices etc. (while the owner takes care of business) without supervision.

If you are planning to buy a coop in Hungary, the good news is that the  coop board cannot oppose keeping dogs in your apartment.

…and do not forget to pick up after your dog!

Penalties: No registration 165 Euro, no leash 35 Euro Your dog kills another dog and you are a no show at the court, your penalty is 350 Euro. Beyond that, no-one really cares and you cannot be jailed.

Why do I bother to tell you all about these things? Because I’ve been visiting a bunch of government offices, banks and other public places in Budapest and I’ve been taking Anka along. The good thing is that no one really cares about pet laws and restriction as long as you have such a cute and well behaving dog as Anka.

farm dog visiting big city dwelling...

farm dog visiting big city dwelling…

I’ve also taken her to stores and restaurants, (where she was even fed,) The waiters and clerks at all locations have given in to the “Anka Pressure” and let her to come in. Of course, Anka’s behavior has always been exemplary at any establishments.

After we’ve finished all the official stuff I had to take care of, we’ve had some serious dog fun in the City. We also had some quiet… agility time at the  “Pilisi Kutya Iskola” training facility. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yswtxyX8kl0

To be continued…

 

What a small world. It was funny to read about St Elisabeth, a Hungarian Saint. I was commissioned to build a mural for the Chicago St Elisabeth Church back in the early 1990's

Went to see an outdoor exhibition in Budapest. What a small world… It was funny to read about St Elisabeth, the Hungarian Saint.  I was commissioned to build a ceramics mural for the Chicago St Elisabeth Church back in 1991

It can happen only in America

It can happen only in America…a Hungarian ethnic German former Catholic nun’s daughter originally from Transylvania is commissioned to design and build an exterior mural for a black Catholic church in Chicago,  named after a Hungarian Saint, Saint Elizabeth

 

 

Fun with the dogs...went for a hike to the popular "Harmashaterhegy" hiking area on the outskirt of Budapest. It is actually part of Budapest with Metro Area transportation to and from the City

Fun with the dogs…went for a hike to the popular “Harmashaterhegy” hiking area on the outskirt of Budapest. It is actually part of Budapest’s 2nd and 3rd district  with Metro Area transportation to and from the City

The mobile and police communication tower at "Harmashatar-hegy"

The major transmission tower for mobile carriers and police communication at “Harmashatar-hegy”

Cannot remember the leash laws...

Cannot remember the leash laws…

Andrea teaching geology and rock formation to the dogs.

Andrea teaches geology and rock formation to the dogs.

"Harmashater-hegy is home of the "glider plane's airport for many decades

“Harmashater-hegy is home of the “glider plane’s airport for 50-60 years

the popular cogwheel train taking tourists and their dogs up to the popular hiking area.

the popular cogwheel train taking tourists and their dogs up to the popular hiking area, the “Harmashatar Hegy.”

Andrea Csilla Szabo and her dog Sio at the

Andrea Csilla Szabo and her dog Sio at the “Pilisi Kutya Iskola”

 

 

 

 

 

An der schönen blauen Donau (Blue Danube)

June 16, 2018

As I was driving in the afternoon Budapest traffic jam along the riverbank of the Danube River, an old pleasant memory popped into my head.  https://youtu.be/9dYLEI3lrUg

The cover of Johann Strauss II's

The cover of Johann Strauss II’s “An der schönen blauen Donau

When I was a kid and even later in life, it has been a family tradition to watch the Vienese Philharmonic Orchestra’s performance on television in the  morning of January 1 each year. Many people whom I’ve known,  got up in the morning of the first day of the new year and  watched the concert regardless of how sleepy or hangover they were after their new year parties.

As a kid, the “Blue Danube” by Johann Strauss II was the highlight of the televised new year’s day concert.  I guess, for no particular reason. Of course it has catchy  tunes that has turned  into a lifetime jingle (especially when driving along the Danube in Budapest in an afternoon traffic jam…), because my mother always talked about it during the concert and overtime the stories she said has built up my expectations. Also, because of the waltz’s dreamy title, “The Blue Danube…” and the awesome superimposed photos of the cities along the Danube’s 1770 miles banks, Ulm, Linz, Vienna, Bratislava Budapest, Novi Sad… as they slowly floated across the black and white television monitor to the tunes of the music.  It has made me dreaming of distant lands along the river.

The ultimate Kodak moment of the Blue Danube.

The ultimate Kodak moment of the Blue Danube.

There is one memorable photo, easily the  signature picture of  Budapest split by the mighty Danube, taken high up from the great distance of the Castle hill.  The picture shows the Parliament building, the famous Chain Bridge, and the calm mirror like magnificent river below.  It has been the perfect and sanitized Kodak moment of the “Blue Danube.”

But how blue, and how calm and how perfect is the Danube anyway?  It is the second longest river in Europe about 1770 miles long. Its headwater in the Black Forest in Germany and it enters into the Black Sea somewhere near the Romanian Bulgarian border after rolling through 10 different countries.

The Danube's River monster, the Huchen or Danube Salmon it can go about four feet long and weight 110lbs.

The Danube’s River monster, the Huchen or Danube Salmon it can grow up to four feet long and weight 110lbs.

It is one of the most important major transportation water-ways on the continent, has its own unique fauna and flora, including its own river monster, the Danube Salmone or Huchen, that can grow as big as 4 feet and weight 110 lbs.  Last, but not the least, the Danube is also a much feared and respected river in large parts of Europe. People along its river valley have a personal, relationship with the river.  On the one hand, the river has  provided jobs, irreplaceable drinking water, food, helped in building wealth, contributed to prosperity and inspired arts and cultures. On the other hand, its floods have also been the most destructive events that have taken thousands of lives, destroyed crops and wiped out communities over the centuries.

As the results of the repeated devastating floods, Budapest's Danube river bank infrastructure has been rebuilt and improved over the last 200 years.

As the results of the repeated devastating floods, the river banks of the Danube in Budapest  has been repeatedly rebuilt, expanded and improved over the last 200 years.

Uniquely, there has been no major superstitions and biblical prophecies applied to the Danube over hundreds of years, as Christian Rohr explains in his study of meteorological history, “The Danube Floods and The Human Response and Perception (14th to 17th Century) “. In fact, there has been a very sober and rational relationship between the river and its human inhabitants as Rohr describes it. People have learned to ignore god and his alleged doings during major devastations and instead of  trying to appease God,  they have focused on rebuilding and developing more effective flood prevention technics and river control methods . Oddly, the church has shared this approach and has provided generous financial support after each flood to help rebuilding  the destroyed lives and communities.

the old riverbank of Budapest around the turn of the 20th century. It had failed to protect the city from floods over and over again.

the old unenforced riverbanks of Budapest around the turn of the 20th century.They had failed to protect the city from floods over and over again.

It’s been a constant armwrestling between the river and its people throughout history. Budapest has also experienced its fair share of devastating floods during its existence. In the 1800’s, 23 major floods ravaged the City (not counting smaller ones) that have generated repeated severe humanitarian disasters.  If you think about it, it is a very disturbing number. It means that people have experienced a devastating flood every four years in one century. Countless iives have been lost,  tens of thousands of people have been displaced, properties destroyed and food supplies wiped out when major floods hit Budapest 23 times in a hundred year time period. For instance, during the flood of 1838, 150 people had lost their lives, 50,000(!) had become homeless. That number was about 1/3 of the entire population of Buda and Pest in the 1830-40s.  (the two cities, Buda and Pest was not integrated that time.)  The Danube effected real estate fortunes, impacted infrastructure over the centuries and  the City kept  defending itself from the destructive power of the river. People have not moved…

However, the mighty river cannot be blamed as the single culprit for all the pains and sufferings of its inhabitants. The river is also a long time witness and a passive conduit of its people’s lifestyle, biases, cultural, religious differences, and hubris, especially in the 20th Century.

Military personnel in protective gear searching for survivals at the Ajka Aluminum chemical waste product escape disaster. The toxic sludge ultimately ended up in the Danube.

Military personnel in protective gear searches for survivals of  the Ajka Aluminum chemical waste product disaster. The toxic sludge ultimately ended up in the Danube.

contaminated creek carrying chemical waste toward the Danube after the Ajka disaster

contaminated creek carrying chemical waste toward the Danube after the Ajka disaster

The Danube has often been used  as industrial  waste dump, harnessed for its energy in harmful and devastating ways, and used to hide humanity’s sinister acts as a mass grave for people and war machines. It has also swallowed up cultures that were nihilated in the name of progress.

The Ada Kaleh, the tiny Turkish island on the Romanian section of the Danube River was sank to give way to the hydroelectric power plant on the Danube. a 300 year old thriving ethnic culture was eliminated in the name of progress

Ada Kaleh, the tiny Turkish island on the Romanian section of the Danube River was flooded to give way to the hydroelectric power plant on the Danube. A 300 year-old thriving ethnic community was uprooted in the name of progress

the island under water on a satellite photo

the island fo Ade Kaleh under water on a satellite photo

The tragic fate of the frequently romanticized “Turkish island,” Ada Kaleh,  or the “Ottoman Atlantis,” as historians named it, on the Danube’s Romanian section has been a longtime Austrian outpost for the Habsburg Empire until  it was seceded to the Turks, in the 1600’s.  The Ottoman inhabitants of the tiny island, have established a thriving economic and cultural life during their close to 300 years of existence, until the Romanian communist government decided to built the infamous Iron Gate  hydro-electric power plant on the Danube in the 1970’s.  The newly built  dam flooded the island that simply disappeared under water like the city of Atlantis with its buildings and entire unique muslim history and culture.

The infamous Iron Gate hydroelectric power plant. Its dam system flooded the island of Ada Kaleh.

The infamous Iron Gate hydroelectric power plant. Its dam system flooded the island of Ada Kaleh.

When Central Europe’s multicultural melting pot have over boiled time to time, it has brought violence, destruction, ethnic cleansing and suffering for the area along the Danube’s river valley. Two world wars have been started in the region, in which the river has always played an important strategic role.  Near the end of WWII hundreds of Nazi river warships were sunken by the Germans to avoid the Soviets to seize and use them against the retreating forces of the Third Reich. These boats have never been lifted from the bottom of the river and during excessive droughts, the gost ships break  though the surface of the water and can be seen from passing boats and from the shores.

During the 2003 drought the water level has lowered so much that sunken german warships broke the surface of the river. this event has opened a new research projects for historians

During the 2003 drought the water level has lowered so much that sunken german warships broke the surface of the river. this event has opened a new research projects for historians

The monument on the waterfront of the Danube remembering the jewish victims of the holocaust

The monument on the waterfront of the Danube remembering the jewish victims of the holocaust

One of the most shameful WWII atrocities along the Danube is memorialized by the abandoned shoes memorial on the river bank of the Danube in the center of Budapest. Between 1944-1945 the henchmen of the Naci sympatizer Hungarian government, executed twenty thousand  Jews on the river front of the Danube. The memorial is a chilling testament about one of the darkest moments of humanity.

Disasters and tragedies in more recent memories were the cyanid pollution of the Danube from the Romanian gold mines in 2000 and the infamous toxic sludge river pollution from the caustic byproducts of aluminum production from Ajka, Hungary. The heavy sludge  broke the levees of the giant storage pools and polluted over 15 sq miles of lands, creeks, displacing and killing wildlife, and livestock.  More than 10 people have died and hundreds were seriously injured. Towns and villages in the area have been abandoned and never rebuilt. The chemical sludge ended up in the Danube that has carried the devastating pollution further downriver to other communities.

What is the takeaway of these stories?  I do not know. Perhaps that the “Blue Danube Syndrome” is really not an isolated chain of events specific to a certain geographic area or its people.  While we tend to dismiss our hubris and the plentiful cautionary biblical prophecies, we cannot escape to be repeatedly reminded of our not too bright future.  In a twisted way, the entertainment industry and cinema have taken charge of the delivery of prophetic messages by way of rolling out apocalyptic action movies and stories that depicts mankind’s potential gloomy fate in response to our arrogance.

Has the cinema industry replaced the role of religion or it has become "the religion? Do movies take over the role of scripture and the diminished impact of prophecies?

Has the cinema industry replaced the role of institutionalized religion or it has become “a religion?” Do movies become the ultimate delivery platforms  of biblical prophecies?

Budapest and the Danube also have their very own apocalyptic film now, produced in 2017. It is titled, “DVNA” (Danube). Tamas Yvan Topolanszky, the young Hungarian director in his nightmarish movie,  depicts life in Budapest, immediately after  the Danube disappears from its river bed overnight.

What is the outcome of the movie? I won’t be able to tell you because the traffic has finally started moving along the river bank and I am not supposed to write on my phone while driving the car.

Instead, I start doodling the “Blue Danube” again.

To be continued…

 

.

Jet Lag and the Urban Folklore Green Project

June 14, 2018

you are the bartender of your body's Circadian Rhythm and Blues bar.

you are the bartender of your own body’s Circadian Rhythm and Blues bar so use your mixology expertise wisely.(image credit: Catherine Streeter)

According to The National Sleep Foundation, traveling to distant locations across several time zones, “you are likely to experience the phenomenon of jet lag which can have profound effects on your sleep and alertness.” What was believed as a state of mind for a long time (jet lag), today is a scientifically proven imbalance in the body’s “biological clock”  the foundation explains.

bang...! you might be able to say no to drugs but you would miserably fail when trying to say no for an echte Hungarian "csiken paprikas..."

bang…! you might be able to say no to drugs but you would miserably fail when trying to say no to an echte Hungarian “chicken paprikas…”

As it turns out, studies by Northwestern University and Harvard’s Medical Chronobiology Program, have also proven that messing too much and especially long term with one’s Circadian Rhythm and Blues, one might encounter complications of high blood pressure, Type 2 Diabetes, weight gain and other health problems due to excessive eating in response to the mixed signals of one’s body.

My sister, Zsuzsanna, the Csiken Paprikas Lady with Anka. Anka is wearing her cooler because of the unusual heat (at least for us upstate NY farmers

My sister, Zsuzsanna, the “Chicken Paprikas Lady” with Anka. Anka is wearing her cooler because of the unusual hot weather in Budapest (at least for us, upstate NY farmers)

To avoid a potential jet lag nightmare after my arrival to Budapest, I’ve decided to decline to eat all the delicious greasy, salty, sweet and fattening Hungarian culinary wonders that I was offered at my sister’s home. But than I realized that good manners are essential and it would be absolutely pointless to hurt my family by refusing to eat. I’ve decided to compromise, (basically sacrificed myself)  and did eat all the goodies they served and more…

To get rid of my guilt, the extra weight and also to give Anka a break, we took her to a nearby park with my sister Zsuzsanna, where she has shown me an interesting green project.  In the park, all the different newly planted trees are accompanied with large signs explaining not only the particular tree’s botanical description, but also its potential industrial use and function in folklore.

if you suffer of ophiophobia, than you want to sit and rest under the shades of ash trees as Slavic legends say

if you suffer of ophiophobia, than you want to sit and rest under the shades of ash trees to avoid snakes as Slavic legends say

Did you know for instance that Ash is used in the furniture and sport  industry? Also, according to Slavic folklore, it is safe to sit under ash trees, because snakes avoid the shadows of ash reflected on the ground.

Or, have you ever heard that in Pomerania and Mecklenburg, (German principalities) wooden pegs made of maple and sycamore trees were used by the medieval building industry to reenforce doors, door frames and thresholds to keep witches out from the homes?

Sycamore, the anti witch tree according to german folklore.

Sycamore, the anti witch tree according to german folklore.

After reading the signs, I was not entirely sure that what was such a big deal about witches? But than the more I was thinking about it and tried to rationalizing it,  I realized that I shouldn’t  rush to judgment, because what would I know about superstitions and supernatural creatures? After all I am not from some North-eastern German province, I am just a Transylvanian.

To be continued…

 

Pumis, Bacon, Palinka, Terrorism, Politics and The Ominous Toilet Bowl

March 26, 2016

At Hajnalka Velekei's "Ttoktudó Kennel" at Tápióbicske

At Hajnalka Velekei’s “Ttoktudó Kennel” at Tápióbicske

Pumi talk with József Árkosi Club president, Gabriella Szabadosné and me (pictured)

Pumi talk with József Árkosi Club president, Gabriella Szabadosné and me (pictured)

We are home at long last!  After six weeks in Hungary we are back home on the farm in Delhi, NY.  Every day has been a continuos inseparable experience in Hungary. Pumis, family, friends, food, alcohol, melancholy, nostalgia, literature, religion, political discontent  and the dreaded central European toilet bowl…- essential attributes of Central-European existentialism.

I’ve spent six weeks in Europe, mostly in Hungary where I’ve traveled all over the country to see groomers,  breeders and their Pumis.  I also had a quick trip to Austria and a short stop in Helsinki, Finland.

Felt art - preparation for Easter

Felt art – preparation for Easter

ham ham ham

ham ham ham

We were also invited to a Pumi Club party/meeting, where current changes in the law affecting breeders of Hungarian native dog breeds have been discussed along Club life, activities and delegation of responsibilities.

 

For Hungarian women, the work place, formal organizations and even everyday life in general still offers different experiences and less opportunities than for men in Hungary.  To summarize my experience, the food was great while club business and female membership are still incompatible today.

Bacon Nation

Bacon Nation

An authentic and legal... distillery in Mezöberény

An authentic and legal… distillery in Mezöberény

Dog shows are reflections of the existing power struggles of the opposing Hungarian Pumi parties.  According to rumors  oppositions have slowly been eroding however. The word is out that more people are considering to join the official club – after all common sense might prevail in the interest of the breed.

Undoubtedly, Hungary remains the Mecca of the Pumi, even though, dog culture and breeding practices could use a bit of update and a few gallons of fresh paint.  The good news is that changes are  coming along thanks to the Hungarian Pumi Club’s (Magyar Pumi Klub) efforts.  Health testing is becoming more frequent, the registered breeding stock is managed better through frequent breeding stock review, including essential temperament tests.  The number of breeders who take responsibility and health test their dogs are slowly increasing. What is ironic however is that many who still refuse to test their own dogs, demand to see test results from breeders who have done the health tests.  hypocrisy at its best…!

Street musician in the heart of Budapest playing using wine glasses

Street musician making music by using wine glasses in the heart of Budapest

The mobile pedal powered beer cart riding through one of the historic districts of Budapest. Patrons must be pedaling to move the vehicle on the road while drinking beer.

The mobile pedal powered beer cart riding through one of the historic districts of Budapest. Patrons must be pedaling to move the vehicle on the road while drinking beer.

For Hungarians, life is well greased with bacon, smoked with cigarettes and wetted with Palinka in Hungary.  Vegetables and fruits are expensive and therefore they are not integral part of Hungarian diet. Fresh green products, including fruits’ prices have been controlled by the vegetable mafia for over five decades.

Meat, cured salami, smoked sausage, lard, alcohol and its corollary, high blood pressure overwhelms everyday folks’ lives. Heart attack is the most frequent killer of Hungarians.

The ever present healthcare crisis you to severely underpaid medical professionals further complicates the story.Any ambulance can be easily redirected from hospital to hospital while the patient is dying of  a heart attack in the ambulance due to serious shortage of doctors. The exodus of doctors from Hungary is the second largest human migration in Europe after the  current middle eastern refugee crisis.

Demonstration of power at the Liszt Ferenc Airport in Budapest after the Bruxelles, Belgium terror attack. Opposition parties regarded it unnecessary, ineffective and expensive. An anchor woman in one of the the morning news asked, "So who is going to pay the overtime for the S.W.A.T. team?" The following day the number of military vehicles were reduced at the airport entrance

Demonstration of power at the entrance of the Liszt Ferenc Airport in Budapest after the Bruxelles, Belgium terror attack. Opposition parties regarded it unnecessary, ineffective and expensive. An anchor woman in one of the the morning news asked, “So who is going to pay the overtime for the S.W.A.T. team?” The following day the number of military vehicles were reduced to two at the airport entrance.

 a WWI museum show pushing government propaganda through glorification of militarism - rally around the right wing government

a museum show about the Great War and its consequences. Pushing government propaganda through glorification of militarism – rally around the right wing government

Hungarian politics is authoritarian and it is in close alliance with Putin’s Russia. Corruption is rampant in many aspects of life. Politicians are like feudal overlords who buy public land below market price and abuse power. Opposing voices are often intimidated and muted. The last television news I watched in Hungary has secretly followed the trail of a big chunk of money recently appropriated by the EU to investigate government corruption in Hungary.  The news story revealed that the money  has been embezzled by those government  agencies and politicians who should have been investigated for alleged corruptions.

Regardless, Hungary is still a fascinating country that you must put on your bucket list to visit. It is a beautiful place, with welcoming people, lots of Pumis,  fantastic architecture, endless history and  great cultural and culinary traditions. Also,  is still relatively inexpensive.

Architectural details in the castle district with a "cool girl"

Architectural details in the castle district with a “cool girl”

world class architecture

world class architecture

But remember, when visiting Hungary and Central Europe, always be on the alert.  The region has always been an exciting, however a complex place that often surprises visitors.  Hungarians like other nations in the area are absorbed by existentialism that is present in every aspect of life and sometimes can be overbearing. It can also appear in the least expected context like the often discussed “shelf modeled toilet…” But I guess, these are some of  the things that makes Hungary and Central Europe authentic and different from the rest of the world and also why we all like to go there.

The German shelf toilet - Heideggerian Existentialism explained -

The German shelf toilet – Heideggerian Existentialism explained –

CLICK HERE ——>https://youtu.be/bpSiMbkhkuE

to be continued….

Famous Sons of Styria, Austria

March 6, 2016

The Messe Center in Graz, the dog show site. I live only a few blocks away.

The Messe Center in Graz, the dog show site. I live only a few blocks away.

Currently, I am in Graz at the International Dog Show. For FCI Group 1, it is only a one day show on Sunday.

Graz’s population is about 300,000 people. It is the capital of Styria and is located in the South eastern corner of Austria near the Slovenian and Hungarian border. Graz  seems to be one of those ideal multi cultural picture perfect central European cities from the playbook of the Habsburg dynasty of the legendary Austro-Hungarian Monarchy. The city is a true  custodian of the often idealized gilded past through its architecture, institutions and traditions. The baroque buildings along the quiet narrow cobble stone paved streets, the richly decorated formal palaces and monumental government buildings  on the open town square, or the ghostly Gostling Castle above the city are great reminders of greatness, wealth, culture and the  imperial absolutism of the past.

The Rathaus or town hall in Graz. I am surprised that Donald Tump has not proposed yet to rename the U.S. Capitol "The Rathaus"

The Rathaus or town hall in Graz. I am surprised that Donald Tump has not proposed yet to rename the U.S. Capitol “The Rat house”

When traveling to foreign places, I am always interested in the “famous native sons and daughters” of the countries and cities I visit. Graz also has its own interesting group of people  to offer.

Graz was the home of Archduke Franz Ferdinand, the nephew of the Austro-Hungarian Emperor, Franz-Joseph.  The aging ruler who preferred feudal tranquility to the reform ideas of the duke,  had a rather unsavory relationship with Franz Ferdinand. The Archduke was also looked upon as one of the dynasty’s black sheep because he married  Countess Sophie Chotek of Bohemia who was just below the “princess level.” Among the many repercussions were Sophie’s exclusion from major state events and the  denial to be buried in the Habsburg Imperial Crypt in Vienna.  The couple’s children were also not eligible for the Monarchy’s throne.  The Archduke’s  assassination in Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, caused the beginning of the Great War in 1914.

Arch Duke Johann, the Styrian Prince, one of the favorite son of Graz and Austria, military man and the nerd of the Habsburg dynasty. founder of the Joanneum one of the early universities in Graz, The Graz, Library, Mutual Fire Insurance Co., the Austrian Southern Railway among many other things. He married beneath of his rank, the postmaster's daughter Maria Anna Pilz, that automatically annulled his accession to the Austrian throne.

Arch Duke Johann, the Styrian Prince, one of the favorite sons of Graz and Austria, was a military man and the “nerd” of the Habsburg dynasty. He was the founder of the Joanneum one of the early universities in Graz, The Graz Library, Mutual Fire Insurance Co., the Austrian Southern Railway among many other institutions that contributed to the economic and scientific progress of Austria.  He married beneath of his rank, to the postmaster’s daughter, Maria Anna Pilz. The union automatically annulled his accession to the Austrian throne.

An interesting fact about Franz Ferdinand is that he was  a trigger happy hunter, who killed close to 300,000 wild animals during his short life, from small birds to elephants according to Richard N. Lebow,  who wrote  the book, “Archduke Franz Ferdinand Lives! A World Without World War I,” in the “what if genre,” proposing and alternative history for the world. Imagine, how our lives would be different today without the first world war… The assassination of Duke Franz Ferdinand in Sarajevo was indeed one of the greatest catalyst of extraordinary changes in the history of humankind. It is fascinating to think – in a twisted way, – that most technological and scientific inventions  of the 20th century, including the radar, nuclear bomb, man on the moon, your iPhone and one of their unintended results, climate change, originates from Graz, the birth place of Archduke Franz Ferdinand.

Archduke Franz Ferdinand, another Habsburg member of the "morganatic marriage" club, (a fancy word for you...) Where would you be and what would your life look like if he was not assassinated...?

The figure from Graz, whose mere existence probably caused it all. His assassination has altered the trajectory of the world – ( for better or worse…?)  Archduke Franz Ferdinand, another Habsburg member of the “morganatic marriage” club, (a fancy word for you…) Where would you be and what would your life look like if he was not assassinated in Sarajevo…?

A bit of contemporary literature from Graz, Folke Tegetthoff. over 40 books and additional films and performances. His favorite genre is to write new style fairy tales for adults. "There is no greater desire than to find someone who listens to you"

A bit of contemporary literature from Graz, Folke von Tegetthoff. (another von…) A story teller, has written over 40 books. He has also written  films and performances. His favorite genre is new style fairy tales for adults. “There is no greater desire than to find someone who listens to you”

http://youtu.be/j1pruq2VffM <—- CLICK HERE!  Ironically, a probably much better known figure  from Graz, is, the ultimate pop culture icon, the total recall governor of  California, 2003, former two times Mr. Universe, Arnold Schwarzenegger.  He was the son of the former police chief of Graz, Gustav Schwarzenegger. His father was also a former Nazi party member during WWII. We all know   Arnold’s rise to fame and his fall.  Arnold’s movies range from “Pumping Iron”  to “The Terminator” and beyond. It can happen only in America and it can happen only in California.

Graz's legend, Arnold Schwarzenegger Mr. Universe, The Terminator, the Total Recall Governor of California. He unlike the two Archdukes, he married up and he still managed to screw up. Herr Tegelhoff could write a realistic fairy tale about him.

Graz’s legendary son, Arnold Schwarzenegger Mr. Universe, The Terminator, the Total Recall Governor of California. Unlike the two Archdukes, he married up, not down into the American royal family, the Kennedys and he still managed to screw up. Herr Tegelhoff could write a new style fairy tale about him.

By the way, as you would expect, there is an Arnold Schwarzenegger Museum in Graz. It is the sort of Austrian “Graceland” with less flair  and more though guy image.  The museum recreates Schwarzenegger’s early life in Graz, Austria. It exhibits memorabilia, photos, documents, exercise machines and other, sometimes frivolous curiosities.

young Jack Unterweger, a disturbed mind of Styria's famous sons.

young Jack Unterweger, a disturbed mind of Styria’s famous sons.

The difference between fame and infamy is just one’s interpretation . Jack Unterweger, the Austrian serial killer has certainly stained the impeccable list of famous sons of Styria. Jack, the son of a Vienese woman, Theresa Unterweger and an unknown American soldier, was born in Judenburg, Styria just an hour drive from Graz.  Jack’s early life was the clear road map to the dark side. He’s been in and out of prison for sexual assault. He committed his first murder in 1974. While in prison he started writing stories and poems. “Purgatory of a Guilty Man” has served as the main source for a documentary movie. In 1990, Unterweger has been released from prison as a rehabilitated man with the assistance of public and celebrity pressure. His writings has been taught in schools and his twisted persona celebrated as the example of one of the successes of liberal penitentiary reform. Jack has become a public figure, journalist and broadcaster. As it turned out, during his broadcasting carrieer, he was reporting many of his unsolved earlier murders.

John Malkovich's play catered to the fascination of Americans with murder and violence

John Malkovich’s play catered to the fascination of Americans with murder and violence

Unterweger has turned out as a notorious “meurtrier sans frontier” (murderer without borders) as it was discovered that he also killed in Czechoslovakia, Germany and later in the US when he was hired  by a magazine to write about crime and prostitution in the US.

Even though he committed suicide in his Austrian prison, his infamy has been carried on in popular culture. He has been portraid by John Malkovich in “Seduction and Despair”, he was also portrayed in “The Infernal Comedy” in 2009 and in a documentary movie, “Entering Hades.”

An Austrian play about the disturbed mind of Unterweger

An Austrian play about the disturbed mind of Unterweger

He was charged of eleven murders and found guilty of nine. Since he was seeking appeal while he died by Austrian law his “guilty verdict was not legally binding.”

Grüße aus Graz!

Schwarzenegger's sculpture at the Schwarzenegger Museum in Graz. It is funny that how much it reminds me Rodin's sculpture "The Thinker" perhaps there is such a thing as muscle brain after all...

Schwarzenegger’s sculpture at the Schwarzenegger Museum in Graz .It reminds me Rodin’s sculpture “The Thinker” perhaps there is such a thing as muscle brain after all…

Ha... an outdoor sculpture at the Schwarzenegger museum

Ha… an outdoor sculpture at the Schwarzenegger museum

An invaluable piece from the Schwarzenegger Museum. Art thieves in trouble...

A   priceless  piece  from  the Schwarzenegger  Museum. Could art thieves sue the museum for hernia injury…

 

 

The super futuristic "Kunsthaus" in Graz. It is the home of art works made after 1960. Or perhaps an unidentified submarine that can be modified to launch missiles to restore the Habsburg Monarchy. Who will be the new emperor? Arnold, Johann or Ferdinand? Perhaps Folke Tekkerhoff can write the story down

The super futuristic “Kunsthaus” in Graz. It is the home of art works made after 1960. Or perhaps it is a secret  submarine that can be modified to launch missiles to help in the restoration of the Habsburg Monarchy and the elimination of  the prohibition of”morganatic marriages” for members of the imperial family. Who will be the new emperor? Arnold, Johann or Ferdinand? Perhaps Folke von Tegetthoff will reveal it in his next fairy tale book

A Day Without Pumis

March 1, 2016

My sister posing with the Pumis in front of a subway musician. The guy probably finished the Liszt Ferenc Conservatorium.

My sister posing with the Pumis in front of a subway musician. The guy probably finished the Liszt Ferenc Conservatorium.

Dog shows, meetings, breeding dogs,  exercising, eating, visiting family…pretty much thats all that I could do during the  first two weeks in Budapest. Time flies fast. Finally, Sunday my sister convinced me to forget the Pumis and dragged me to the City.  I did not oppose and there we went.

My buns are perhaps growing from the delicious food , however, I turn them into buns of steel during the spin classes I've been taking in the near by gym.

My buns are perhaps growing from the delicious food , however, they turn into buns of steel during the spin classes I’ve been taking in the nearby gym.

Budapest is a humungous size city with a population of over 3 million people within 203 square miles of land. This area is strictly the 22 districts of the City of Budapest without the greater metropolitan area.  (compare it to New York’s  five boroughs with over 8 million people on 305 square miles of land .)  About 1/3 of Hungary’s population of 10 million lives in Budapest.

or

Spin…

Checking out street vendors in the Jewish quarter

Checking out street vendors in the Jewish quarter

Spin...

or not to spin

We aimed the famous Erzsebetvaros, or Elizabethstadt in German or in English simply Elizabethtown, the VII-th district (7th district). This area was the outer edge of the City of Pest prior to the 1873,  unification of the three independent cities, Buda, Pest, and Old- Buda.  During the 1800s there have been gardens, small agricultural plots around this area with one  and two story houses where the jewish population started moving in to the city from the countrysides  in search for a better life.

Cobble stone, narrow streets, old buildings...

Cobble stones, narrow streets, old buildings…

 

The turn of the century (1900) has brought an incredible urban renaissance to the area.  Eclectic high-rise buildings and wide boulevards, were designed and built  that surrounded the perimeters of the largest jewish quarter in Budapest. During this time, the area’s  vernacular name has become “Csikago” after the City of Chicago in the U.S.. The nickname drew a parallel between the rapid urban and economic growth of the area and the American metropolis. Ironically, during the Great Depression, the name stuck with the district, but at this time  because of another parallel drawn between the two cities, the growth in crime rate.

the sign basically says shot up and respect you neighbors

Shut up visitors !

 

Near the end of WWII the jewish population has been systematically  decimated by the retreating German military from the Russian front and the Hungarian National Socialists.  After the war, during the rebuilding of the City, the center of Elizabethtown, the “ghetto,” as it was unofficially called by the communists, got  very small attention. It has remained one of the most dilapidated, poorest and crime ridden part of Budapest, hidden behind magnificent edifices.

City bikes to avoid driving around tipsy in the neighborhood (hungary has ZERO (0) alcohol tolerance for drivers of automobiles (also, Hungary has the strongest "Drunk Drivers Against Mothers" movement. (OK bad joke...)

City bikes to avoid driving around tipsy in the neighborhood. Hungary has ZERO (0) alcohol tolerance for drivers of automobiles. Consequently,  Hungary has the strongest “Drunk Drivers Against Mothers” movement. (OK bad joke…)

During the 1960s’ Communist integration policy, the Gipsy (Romani) from the countryside, was forced to move under the  urban relocation programs into the district’s abandoned and battered buildings. Lack of infrastructure, sanitation, policing and available jobs, turned the area into a hotbed of urban crime again. During  the 1970’s and 1980’s’ communist gentrification, a slow, however, steady wave of “bohemian artistic crowd” moved into the area that has become the beginning of the second urban renaissance of the district.

Memorials for the members of the Swiss Embassy who saved the Jews of Budapest during WWII

Memorials for the members of the Swiss Embassy who saved the Jews of Budapest during WWII

 

Today, Elizabethtown is a huge tourist attraction with street vendors, artisans, galleries, restaurants, bars, micro hotels and great apartments for rent. We spent pretty much the entire Sunday in the area wondering around.  One of the greatest attractions are the “Ruin pubs” that open up  in abandoned buildings and empty lots with good food, wide selection of beers, art works for sale and music.

IMG_4636

The entrance of one of the “Ruin pubs” in the district. The fundamental idea is to rent or occupy an abandoned building and set up shop using second hand  furniture, weird art work and thrift store clutter. Serve alcohol with no regular hours and no permits and move on when the neighbors complain or the authorities are after you.,

The "Madach Building... in retrospect one of the most ironic architectural piece of the area build in 1938 right on the perimeter of the "ghetto." Its style suspiciously remind me so many Nazi and fascist architecture of the era.

The “Madach Building… in retrospect one of the most ironic architectural piece of the area build in 1938 right on the perimeter of the “ghetto.” Its style suspiciously reminds me to Nazi and Fascist architecture of the era.

Although most of the area has been restored and sanitized to entertain tourists, the ghosts of those who perished during the violent past, have been and will be present in the air,  the bricks of the buildings, the cobble stones of the streets and in the reflections of leaded glass windows of the synagogues.

The arcade of the Madach building. Regardless, it is a fine piece of representation of the era. The apartments in the building in this area must worth a fortune.

The arcade of the Madach building. It is a fine piece of representation of the era. The apartments in the building must worth a fortune. Location location location…

The famous six-story "Huszar Building" the former home of the "Film Museum" The entry was on the first floor and the theater itself was on the basement level under ground. It was very difficult to get tickets. We have watched some of the greatest movies of cinema history here. Fellini, Bergman, Fassbinder, Herzog, Schlondorff, Bunuel, Truffaut, Godard, Cocteau... and the like

in the Jewish quarter, outside of the Main synagogue

FullSizeRender 94

The famous six-story “Hussar Building,” the former home of the iconic “Film Museum.” The entry was on the first floor and the theater itself was on the basement level,  way under ground. It was very difficult to get tickets there. We have watched some of the greatest movies of cinema’s history here with Laszlo. Fellini, Bergman, Fassbinder, Herzog, Schlondorff, Bunuel, Truffaut, Godard, Cocteau, and the like… In my opinion, the program of the Film Museum had a significant role in the collapse of communism….

Last Week Tonight

February 22, 2016

The FeHoVa dog show hall

The FeHoVa dog show hall

It’s been seven busy days in Budapest with the girls, Fruska and Agyag.  In this short time, I’ve managed to squeeze in a family reunion, a four day international dog show, some city hopping/shopping  and a three-day long  un amour de chien. By the way, Kaffogo Agyag justified her amorous attitude with a  quote from the  famous romantic  poet, Ashley Madison, a contemporary of Jane

Austen NOT…,  “Life is Short, Have an Affair…”

Ashley Madison

Ashley Madison, – stories of discretion

Jayne Austen

Jayne Austen – stories of indiscretion

Meeting my family is always a passionate affair...

Meeting my family is always a passionate affair…

Meeting my family is always a passionate gathering and my sister’s high-rise flat seemed a bit tight at times…

Starting on Thursday, February 18, we’ve participated the FeHoVa International  Dog Show at HUNGEXPO, the Budapest fairground. Five shows in four days. Dog shows are a different  kind of animal in Europe than in the U.S. One is better to cancel any other plans on a dog show day (the day really goes to the dogs.)  The organizers certainly give you all the time for your entry fees.

Agyag's result less one CACIB

Agyag’s result less one CACIB

I was glad that I entered Kaffogo Agyag to the shows.  I had a chance to get a partial inside look at the Hungarian Pumi field.  Partial, because, unfortunately, there has been a major schism between the Hungarian Pumi aficionados.  There are breeders and dog owners who are members of the official Magyar Pumi Klub (Hungarian Pumi Club) and than there are the “others” who refuses to recognize the official Club. If you thought that the partisanship in the U.S. Congress is serious than you ain’t see nothing.  It is a sad state of affairs, because there are good breeders and great minds on both sides.  Members of the opposition, with a few exception, do not enter to dog shows organized by or associated with the official Club and vice versa.  As a result, I had a chance to see approximately  70% of the Pumis of those who tend to participate at dog shows and a handful of foreign breeders.

The tram in front of Eifel's Budapest West Railway Terminal than...

The tram in front of Eifel’s Budapest West Railway Terminal than…

...and now (sort of...)

…and now

Since the 2013 Budapest World Dog Show, I’ve noticed some changes. Some Hungarian breeders/handlers started following the Nordic countries and have been experimenting with a more dramatic grooming than what we used to see earlier. Shorter hair and sculpting becoming a more frequent appearance. Interestingly, even some of the judges seemed to prefer the more sculpted Pumi look. In fact, I’ve heard some judges suggesting to some handlers whose dogs entered the ring with a  more natural coat that they should groom their dogs better. I am hesitant to go either way, however, one of the disadvantages that I can see is that much shorter cuts will reduce the importance of the quality of the Pumi coat because it simply won’t be possible to check it. Attitudes and customs have been changing.  One thing however, most handlers seems to be resistant to is, wearing former attire in the ring.

Gray has become the dominant Pumi color. Fawn, unless it is white or off white looking, appears to suffer some set backs.  I had a chance to talk to some of the foreign participants and it sounds that they’ve experienced similar tendencies in their countries too.

IMG_4527The Teddy Bear Syndrome:  I had an interesting discussion with some breeders and “off duty” judges about the increased number of Pumis on the smaller end with softer denser hair with more curvy angles than one would think of the Pumi after reading the breed standard. They are certainly cute and huggable, however, they are missing the size and stamina necessary for the breed’s original function, herding.  I’ve noticed this trend  the past few years in the northic countries and now in Hungary too. Some voices have also raised concerns about this issue in the U.S. too.

in front of the beautifully restored Central Market Hall

in front of the beautifully restored Central Market Hall

The update on Friday’s story is that I filed a formal complaint with the MEOESZ, the Hungarian Kennel Klub, about Judge Istvan Laszlo’s action of withholding the CACIB certificate from Agyag, because she was in “heat.”

photo from upstairs

the market indoor

According to FCI rules, the judge’s decision is final an cannot be reversed. However, if the MEOESZ rules in my favor, the judge can get sanctioned or disciplined.  I was  surprised how much support I’ve got from people. Surprisingly, there were also some supporting opinions from the opposition Pumi camp.

the cholesterol department

the cholesterol department

fruits and veggies

fruits, veggies and the famous paprika

Even though the dog show has consumed most of my time and energy,  I managed to have a nostalgia ride with my sister on the number 6 tram on the ring around the center of the City. The line is 8.3 km long has 19 stops in 29 minutes and it runs 24/7. The tran stops 225 times at each station during the day in both directions during the school year and 210 times when schools is out. The tran starts and ends on the Buda side of the city, however, rides the longest on the pest side.

Now that Agyag’s love affair and the dog show are over, I am ready to catch up with myself.  I am starting my spin class in the nearby gym tomorrow.

ready for my tomorrow spin class

ready for my tomorrow’s spin class

ready for my tomorrow's spin class

ready for my tomorrow’s spin class

 

 

Day Trip to the Country, Pumi History, Palinka Festival and Nostalgia…

Kate Pinches' Magic Pumi Carpet. My Pumis would have been safer to fly on it to Hungary from the U.S. than on Lufthansa...

Kate Pinches’ Magic Pumi Carpet. My Pumis would have been safer to fly on it to Hungary from the U.S. than on Lufthansa…

May 16, 2013

Thursday I went to visit Anna Varadi, Kaffogo Agyag’s breeder in Alsopahok at the western tip of Lake Balaton. Agyag and Fruska was thrilled to play and run in the countryside with Anna’s dog after their high-rise building experience at my sister’s home in Buda.

An animated sequence while talking to my husband Laszlo via Skype...

An animated moment while talking to my husband Laszlo via Skype…

While on the road, I’ve also visited Lovasz Gyorgyne in Kapolnasnyek an important figure in the history of the Pumi in Hungary.  It was an interesting experience to leap back in time and listening to old stories of the breed.

Once back in Budapest, in the evening, my sister’s family took me to a Palinka Festival to Erzsebet-ter on the Pest side of the city – a very Hungarian way to finish a great day – I may add…  The evening brought back old memories from the

My sister Zsuzsanna, my nephew Raymond and me.

From right to left, my sister Zsuzsanna, my nephew Raymond and me. (Everybody Loves Raymond…:-))

1580’s when I used to live in Budapest after moving here from Transylvania…

 

“Nonstop you…”

May 13, 2013

We arrived to Dusseldorf around 4AM, Tuesday. I was greeted by a Lufthansa official with the frightening news that the airline has lost the two dogs, Fruska and Agyag and could not locate them. As a result, we’ve missed the connection to Budapest and I had to put up with the rudest most uncooperative customer service and airport police. We were driving around the airport on the tarmac from building to building trying to find the dogs for hours. Finally they drove me back to the gate where we originally arrived. The two dogs have been left there in their crates on an open luggage trailer without supervision for several hours. After a full day of delay, finally, they found a connection to Budapest which was obviously difficult because these days “every dog” flies to Budapest to the WDS.

So much about Lufthansa’s superior treatment of animals. Waste of money not even an apology.

Hey Dr. Reinhold Huber! what happened to “Nonstop you…?”

By the way the dogs have been completely quiet in their crates during this several hours long ordeal – according to one Lufthansa or Airport official that was the reason why they did not find them – why not to blame it on the dogs…

One of the lessons of this micro horror story is that the Pumi is a non-barking breed after all…

Photo 23-02-2008 15 37 47